Kowloon Walled City: Humanity’s Tenacity Amidst Urban Chaos

Nestled within the bustling metropolis of Hong Kong, the Kowloon Walled City stood as a remarkable testament to human tenacity and adaptability. The walled city was an extraordinary urban phenomenon that, at its peak, housed over 30,000 residents within its densely packed walls. Despite its notoriety as a haven for crime and vice, the city also reflected a unique sense of community and resourcefulness among its inhabitants. This article delves into the historical background, architecture, daily life, infamous reputation, cultural impact, and the eventual demolition and redevelopment of the enigmatic Kowloon Walled City.

Historical Background

The origins of the Kowloon Walled City trace back to the Sung Dynasty in 960 AD when it served as a military outpost to guard the salt pans and fisheries in the region. As the centuries passed, it underwent multiple transformations under different rulers. However, it was during the Qing Dynasty in the 19th century that the city took its shape as a densely populated urban settlement.

It had little activity for decades until 30 guards moved in approximately 1668. After Chinese forces evacuated Tung Lung Fort in 1810, a modest coastal fort was later built. The Treaty of Nanking, which saw the Qing Daoguang Emperor transfer Hong Kong Island to Britain in 1842, prompted the fort’s upgrading and the building of a strong defensive wall. Despite briefly falling into rebel hands in 1854 during the Taiping Rebellion, the city was quickly retaken. The “Dapeng Association House,” which was formerly component of Lai Enjue’s garrison, stands in for the last intact walled city today.

Between 1956 and 1960, the second Opium War erupted. The war was sparked by tensions over trade, diplomatic relations, and Chinese restrictions on foreign influence. The Western powers sought to expand their trade and diplomatic privileges in China. The war resulted in the Treaty of Tientsin and the subsequent Convention of Peking, which forced China to make significant concessions to the Western powers.

Article 6 of the Convention of Peking stipulated that China was to cede the Kowloon Peninsula and the Island of Hongkong to the British Empire. Though the Kowloon Peninsula was given to the British, one tract of land was exempted from this agreement and that was the Walled City. This would put the Walled City into a state of sovereign limbo as it is still under Chinese rule but in the middle of a British-controlled territory.

In 1899, there were rumors that the viceroy of Canton was using troops to oppose the new treaty that gave extra land to Britain in 1898, this treaty still excludes the walled city. The viceroy’s men had left the city by the time British forces arrived on April 14th, 1899, leaving only the Mandarin(a Chinese official) and 150 citizens.

As the Qing Dynasty weakened, the British Empire expanded its influence in the region through colonization. While the British controlled Hong Kong Island, the Kowloon Peninsula, and the Walled City remained under Chinese sovereignty.

After the fort was abandoned, missionaries took residence in the walled city and built churches, schools, and other infrastructure to help the elderly and needy. Due to having no authorities governing the area, people started to squat inside the walled city which later became a slum.

Several organizations, including the Protestant church, have premises in what were once Chinese government buildings. It mostly functioned as a source of interest for British colonials and visitors. The Hong Kong government had plans to remove dilapidated structures and provide squatters with new residences in 1933. This action was contested by the Nationalist Chinese government, which resulted in a jurisdictional dispute that persisted until the late 1930s when China and Japan were at war.

China declared that it wanted to retake the walled city in 1945. 2,000 squatters had taken up residence in the walled city by 1947 as a result of the Chinese Civil War. In 1948, an unsuccessful attempt was made to drive them out, prompting the British to take a ‘hands-off’ policy to most affairs touching the city.

Architecture and Layout

The architectural marvel of the Kowloon Walled City was a result of a unique amalgamation of creativity, necessity, and limited space. Without a coherent urban plan, the city expanded haphazardly, resulting in a maze of interconnected buildings that seemed to grow chaotically upwards. Towering apartments, interconnected alleyways, and a labyrinth of staircases characterized the vertical growth of the city.

The densely packed structures, built so close to each other that they appeared to be touching, created an intricate network of shared walls and hallways. The residents ingeniously utilized every inch of space, making the most of their limited resources.

Daily Life and Community Inside the Kowloon Walled City

The population of the Kowloon Walled City was a melting pot of different cultures and backgrounds. Within its overcrowded confines, residents found ways to adapt and live harmoniously, creating a close-knit community. Despite the scarcity of resources and limited living spaces, the city thrived with bustling markets, small businesses, schools, and recreational spaces.

Contrary to its infamous reputation, the majority of its inhabitants were hardworking and law-abiding citizens who forged a unique bond with their neighbors. Families lived side by side, sharing the burdens and joys of daily life. Small businesses, such as food stalls and textile shops, catered to the residents’ needs, creating a thriving economy within the city walls.

Infamous Reputation

Despite its vibrant community, the Kowloon Walled City gained infamy as a hotbed of criminal activity and vice. Media portrayal and exaggerated rumors painted the city as a lawless den, creating a stigma that belied the actual lives of its residents. While there were challenges such as unregulated construction, lack of sanitation, and limited access to essential services, these issues were not exclusive to the walled city and were common in other parts of Hong Kong at the time.

The city’s notoriety grew as it became a refuge for illegal activities due to its unique legal status. With both British and Chinese authorities reluctant to assume responsibility for the area, it fell into a legal gray area where law enforcement was lax.

Cultural Impact and Legacy

Despite its controversial reputation, the Kowloon Walled City left a profound impact on popular culture, media, and arts. The city’s unique architecture and the way it encapsulated the essence of urban life fascinated artists, filmmakers, and writers. Its chaotic yet vibrant aura inspired countless fictional portrayals, further fueling its legendary status. The “Cyberpunk” aesthetic was derived from the mesmerizing dystopic chaos of the Kowloon Walled City.

Photographers and documentary filmmakers also found themselves drawn to the city’s captivating visuals and intriguing stories. As a result, the Kowloon Walled City became a symbol of urban decay and resilience, sparking discussions about the relationship between humanity and its living spaces.

Preservation and Heritage Efforts

Recognizing the historical and cultural importance of the Kowloon Walled City, preservationists advocated for its conservation. However, with the rapid urbanization of Hong Kong and the pressing need for redevelopment, the government decided to demolish the city in the 1990s. The residents were relocated, and the area underwent a transformative process.

Demolition and Redevelopment

In 1993, the Kowloon Walled City was demolished, and the site was redeveloped into the serene Kowloon Walled City Park. The park serves as a testament to the city’s history, with some of its original features and structures preserved as relics. The park’s design incorporates elements of traditional Chinese gardens, paying homage to the past while embracing the future.

Conclusion

The Kowloon Walled City remains an enigmatic chapter in the history of urban development, a symbol of human resilience and adaptability. Despite its tumultuous reputation, it stood as a vibrant community where people made the best out of limited resources and spaces. Its legacy lives on through its impact on popular culture and the valuable lessons it offers to urban planners and developers worldwide. The Kowloon Walled City reminds us of the potential of humanity to thrive in even the most chaotic and challenging environments. As we reflect on its history, we are inspired to find innovative solutions to the urban challenges of today, creating communities that foster a sense of belonging and cohesion in the face of rapid urbanization. The legacy of the Kowloon Walled City lives on, a testament to the indomitable spirit of humanity in shaping its living spaces.